Yellowstone and Grand Tetons with Tauck – Day 4

Posted October 20th, 2010

Everyone had their cameras going at first light. Mostly mountains and the lake but one of our group decided to take some 7AM shots of Bernanke and friends on a pre-breakfast walking meeting. He followed with camera and right behind was a physically fit 40 year old in a dark suit and earbud. We all laughed a little and the parade broke up.

Snake River - Site of a Famous (and Better) Ansel Adams Photograph

Snake River - Site of a Famous Ansel Adams Photograph

 

Snake River Rafting

The Snake River, at least in this part of Wyoming, is moderate sized and moves quickly with no white water rapids that we had to contend with. In the park it is only open to rafters – nothing with a motor. This raft trip was just right for our group. There were about 10 to each raft with a guide who used a big pair of oars to make sure we got where we wanted to go.

The Snake River Rafting Team

The Snake River Rafting Team

 

 

Eagles

The weather was perfect at the end of August – no bugs, 60 to 70 degrees and lots of sunshine. This is a big eagle nesting area and we saw some every half mile or so, along with assorted hawks and other close relatives. The “grown ups” were generally sitting well above the water at the top of apine tree looking for lunch in the river. The youngsters were practicing recent flying lessons and making a little more of a fuss.

 

Snake River and the Tetons from our raft

Snake River and the Tetons from our raft

Yellowstone and Grand Tetons with Tauck – Day 3

Posted October 20th, 2010

Day 3 - We needed to cover some Utah and Wyoming real estate. The best part of the drive was the geology lessons that we got from Don Dunkle, Tauck’s guide. We skirted the west side of the Great Salt Lake, going through some real estate that must have tested the pioneers.

The Oregon Trail
 
Our mid day stop was at the National Oregon/CaliforniaTrail Center in southern Idaho. We were well fed again – and they do an excellent job of portraying the life of the 19th century travelers on the Oregon Trail.
First View of the Tetons

First View of the Tetons

 
 
 
Jackson Hole   
The mountains around Jackson are famously spectacular. . And the town of Jackson Hole shows what well-to do tourists can add (money) to bring in upscale outdoor outfitters, art galleries, some with very good (and expensive) western art and a cross section of food and beverage opportunities. We only had an hour or two on our own could have spent a little more time here.
 
 
 
 
Sharing the Jackson Lake Lodge with Ben Bernanke
 
We needed to keep moving to reach Jackson Lake Lodge, which was worth the push. This is owned and run by the National Park Service and the lodge building  is one of their crown jewels. The lodge had a great restaurant with elk, trout and bison on the menu. We felt like we were someplace special.
We were there at the same time as the Federal Reserve System’s annual conference. It was easy to tell who was who. Casually dressed tourists were in the bar and families in the restaurants. Men and women in dark suits were in the meeting rooms, looking like a university faculty with extra security. And camera crews from 5 or 6 networks were using the mountain backdrop to stage their interviews.
Jackson Hole Art Scene - Outdoor Version

Jackson Hole Art Scene - Outdoor Version

Yellowstone and Grand Tetons with Tauck Tours: Day 1 and 2

Posted October 15th, 2010

Day 1 and 2: Salt Lake City

Kickoff Dinner

We started with one of the many steak (or buffalo) dinners on this trip at the Hilton. This is one of the things Tauck has down pat. We met the couple we were traveling with, got introduced to the rest of the 40 + fellow passengers on this trip and got a briefing from our Tour Guide, Don Dunkle. We learned later that Don is one of the most popular tour guides on the Tauck Team – they are each rated after each trip and Don has been getting top ratings for 20 years and several hundred Yellowstone trips.

Utah Highlights

Everyone has there own idea of highlights. Our cabdriver pointed out the statues of Karl Malone and John Stockton in front of the home arena of the Utah Jazz NBA team, which the basketball fans among us (John), appreciated. We also spent an interesting few hours taking a look at the historic parts of Salt Lake City and everything Mormon.

Utah Olympic Park

The highlight for most of us was a few hours spent driving and walking through Utah Olympic Park where the 2002 Winter Olympic games were held. The bobsled and luge runs are intimidating, even in August with no snow. Our local host was also one of the US representatives on the governing body for Luge competition and explained the work that goes into preparing for competition. The little sleds are heavy, about 4 inches off the ground and hit 80 miles an hour in on this course.

Athletes train here year round. The ski jumpers and snow boarders were practicing their acrobatics while we were there, finishing the jumps in a very forgiving swimming pool. 

Training at the Utah Olympic Village

Training at the Utah Olympic Village

Santiago and Chile

Posted June 7th, 2010
Santiago from the Ritz Carlton

Santiago from the Ritz Carlton

After almost two weeks in Argentina, we noticed a gradual change as we approached Santiago. It is a bigger city, with more infrastructure, more high rise construction and more going on than Buenos Aires.

By comparison, Buenos Aires is somehow exotic and maybe stuck in a time warp. Santiago could have been in Denmark or Sweden, clean modern, well into the 21st Century and not the least bit exotic.

Chilean Vineyards

After all of our explorations of Argentinean vineyards we had to spend a day in the Chilean equivalent. The Chilean wine regions are spread out up and down the long valleys between the coastal range and the Andes. We visited a couple that were picked for their proximity -  less than 2 hours out of Santiago on the way to Valparaiso. What can I say. These were good, not as memorable as the best of Mendoza, but a nice afternoon. And the infrastructure is there – a good wine country restaurant with Chilean seafood instead of Argentinean beef. Its all good. And now we have to get to the airport for the long trip home.

Between Santiago and Valparaiso

Between Santiago and Valparaiso

Over the Andes to Chile

Posted June 7th, 2010

I was at early check out at the Hyatt in Mendoza when I checked the weather report. It had snowed overnight in the Andes and the pass to Chile was temporarily closed. Our guide appeared to be unworrried, but a snow delay could screw up the timing for the next few days.

Four Hour Drive to the Chilean Border

It is a four hour drive from Mendoza to the tunnel that marks the 11,500 foot border between Argentina and Chile, usually plenty of time for the snow to be cleared from the tunnel entrances.

The drive is spectacular. It was fall in the Andes and the most visible color was the orange yellow of the tall Lombardy poplars along the roadside.

It Snowed Overnight

It Snowed Overnight

The snow on the mountain tops set off the roadside trees. It looked like this for miles. This drive is one of the best parts of the trip – much better than flying from Mendoza to Santiago.

Alongside the Highway to Chile

Alongside the Highway to Chile

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mount Aconcagua

There were no memorably steep hills on the way to the border, just a steady climb for mile after mile. But we knew we were getting up there. We had a couple of climbers in our group, along with our guide who pointed out Mount Aconcagua in the distance. At 22, 500 feet plus, it is the highest mountain outside of Asia.

Mt Acongogua behind the clouds

Mt Acongogua behind the clouds

Crossing the Border

The border crossing between Argentina and Chile is not exactly like going between the US and Canada. Chile is very fussy about any possible agricultural pests. They have no hoof and mouth disease, mad cow disease, med flies, grape destroying phylloxera, etc. and want to keep it that way. With the Pacific on the South and West, a big desert in the north, and the Andes in the East, they are effectively isolated and take advantage of this to inspect whatever crosses the border, slowly. We had to give up a couple of sandwiches which were smoked meat, therefore suspect and gone.

                                                                                                                   

High Altitude Border

High Altitude Border

  

The Quick Route Down
The highway on the Argentinean side is scenic. About half of us kept our eyes focused on the floor of the coach on the way down into Chile. 32 switchbacks made the drive one that we wont forget quickly. And this is the section that they closed because of snow.
32 Switchbacks to Chile

32 Switchbacks to Chile

At this time of year most of the traffic is professional drivers, buses, trucks and the like. We hear that this and the border crossing can get really bogged down in the summer months when there is no snow and lots of tourist traffic.

2 Days in the Mendoza Wine Region

Posted June 3rd, 2010
Mendoza

Mendoza, a city of 100,000 or so, is the capital of Mendoza, the province which is the location of most of Argentina’s wine industry. It takes a while to get there from Bariloche, there are no direct flights. We flew back to Buenos Aires and, after a few hours in the airport, got on another big plane to Mendoza. Distances are daunting here – like connecting between cities in the Western US – and driving is not a great option.

The Next Napa

Mendoza is not quite Napa Valley, but it is on its way. We stayed at a very modern Park Hyatt across from a major square in central Mendoza. The place seemed busy, with good restaurants and a bit of business activity centered on the wine industry. For some of our group the city tour lead to shopping and some high end momentos of the trip. Some of us opted for a long nap.

Our Favorite Wineries 

Benegas Lynch is one of the first wineries in the region – making Cabernet Franc from 80-year old vines. Their adobe building is historically significant as the owners are credited with bringing the first French grapes to Argentina. The original irrigation system was in full force when we visited, giving some perspective on the 80 year history. 

Starting Point for Argentina's Wine Industry

Starting Point for Argentina's Wine Industry

The Original Irrigation System

The Original Irrigation System

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bodega Catena Zapata also lays claim to pioneering work in developing world class Argentinean wines, particularly for pioneering high altitude vineyards. The original Catena was a faculty member at UC Berkeley for a number of years and no stranger to the Napa Valley. He came home to build a distinctive Mayan style showroom and winemaking facility that is one of the best attractions in Mendoza. And it doesn’t hurt that their best wines get ratings in the mid 90’s from Wine Spectator.

 

Bodega Catena Zapata

Bodega Catena Zapata

Fall Colors in the Catena Zapata Vineyard

Fall Colors in the Catena Zapata Vineyard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Achaval-Ferrer

This was, by our tasting, the best wine we found in Mendoza. Wine Spectator agreed, giving ratings in the high 90’s to some of the Malbecs that we got to try.

It is about the wine. The tasting room and vineyards are off the beaten path and unspectacular, but well known to serious wine buffs and collectors. We got the insider’s perspective from a vacationing Californian who had spent a few years in Argentina starting one of the mobile phone systems in the country – and developing an expertise in the best the region has to offer. Between he and the expert staff, this afternoon was memorable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bariloche and Patagonia – Days 7 and 8

Posted May 25th, 2010
Llaa-Llaa

Llao-Llao

From Our Window
From Our Window

Bariloche is Argentina’s Lake Tahoe. Lot’s of lakes. Mountains high enough for skiing and lots of snow each year. The steep pitched roofs on most of the buildings tells you all you need to know about the peak snowfall.

Fly from BA to Bariloche

Agrentina has a lot going for it, but apparently good roads connecting BA with the interior is not on the list. Landing in Bariloche with 300 or so other sholder-season travelers tells a lot. The landscape around the airport is borderline desolate. Rocky, with not much growing on it. There are no farms or roving cattle in sight. (That’s all in the Pampas, north of BA).

If there is a road headed east to the coast, it is a rugged one. A 1000 mile hour drive we were told. But there are plenty of flights, especially in the winter ski season.

BA felt Spanish and Italian. A Mediterranean lifestyle. Bariloche is German, Austrian, Swiss. Very Alpine. The outdoor living, the lakes and hiking trails must have made central European immigrants feel at home in the big wave of European immigration around WWI. And there are more than enough places with serious custom made chocolate to demonstrate Swiss roots.

Hotel Llao-Llao

We stayed at the famous Hotel Llao-Llao, a great lodge in what I would call the Adirondack style. It was a little more than a half hour from the town, overlooking one of the lakes. It must have been popular with President Eisenhower, who was photographed golfing there sometime in the 1960’s. At this point it is a family friendly place, fairly self contained with serious hiking trails, golf and, in season, fly fishing. 

The hotel is a comfortable place to hang out, with a nice lounge, Argentinian wine, a pleasant happy hour every afternoon and a friendly staff. Everyone enjoyed their stay here, but it felt like going back in time about 40 years. Some of that was charming and some was a signal that an update was overdue.

 

Hotel Llaa Llaa

Hotel Llao Llao

Uruguay for A Day – Colonia Day 5

Posted May 25th, 2010
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Busy Afternoon in Colonia

A Busy Afternoon in Colonia

Fast Ferry for a Big River

 

 

 

 

 

With some early morning haze in the air, we were a little surprised to find out that the river between BA and Uruguay is too wide to see from one side to the other. The fast ferry, a serious vessel with capacity for hundreds of tourists and commuters and some number of cars and trucks, crosses the 25 or so miles in a little under an hour. And there is the excitement of customs and immigration control, which is all handled on the Buenos Aires side for both Argentina and Uruguay when leaving Argentina and on the Colonia side for both countries on the return. The crossing is part of the fun, comfortable, reasonably efficient and an opportunity to look up and down the river.

Colonia -A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Colonia is mostly for tourists. The dominant view is of the classic lighthouse. It is a walking town with a a ring of restaurants and “bistros” ringing the plaza. It comes across as a well preserved 100 year old with some decent photo galleries and shops. Its easy to have a good time here for a few hours, there are plenty of good photo ops and the adventure of walking along old cobblestone streets and walks. We even came across what looked like a moat and drawbridge as we approached the wall of the old city.

The Fast Ferry

The Fast Ferry

On the Rio de la Plata – Day 4

Posted May 25th, 2010
  

 

The Old Port Area

The Old Port - Puerto Madero

BA from the Delta

BA from the Delta

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That Old River with the Color of the Lion

With these words Jorge Luis Borges defined the huge Río de la Plata. 

We left after an early breakfast to wind through Buenos Aires morning traffic for almost an hour before we got to our launch point for a day trip. Still called the “Tigre” for the jaguars that ruled the area a hundred years ago, the modern name is the ”Delta of the Parana River”, referring to the islands and streams that the Parana River has deposited over the years as it joins the Rio de la Plata.  

Today this area is the site of classic rowing clubs, Argentina’s answer to Philly’s Vesper Boat Club, for those people who want to spend their early morning stretching out with a pair of oars in a racing shell. Not everyone was racing, but everyone was enjoying one of the last warm days of fall.
 
 
Weekend Getaways and Destination Restaurants  
Welcome to Gato Blanco Ristorante

Welcome to Gato Blanco Ristorante

This is just far enough from the city to be relaxing, a different world with nothing taller than the treetops. We stopped at a great restaurant with a cruise up dock – I don’t see how anyone could get near this place by car. Exotic, but still comfortable. it made for a nice and very leisurely lunch

Buenos Aires by Water

Motoring back along the river you get a new insight on Buenos Aires. This is a seaport and the water approach proves it, with cranes galore and a long look at the skyline of the city stretched out for miles. This was a totally enjoyable, low key day.

Best of Buenos Aires – Day 2 and 3

Posted May 25th, 2010
 

  Tango For Tourists

 Tango Today

 Learn the Tango Today

Buenos Aires has its own rhythm. Coffee and some exploration in the morning. For some people, a substantial lunch for the first half of the afternoon. A substantial lunch includes the Minimum Daily Requirement of Malbec and a meal that includes beef. Our group squeezed in tango lessons for 20, something that is readily available in the right sections of BA. This is just like the movies. The tango dancers dress in black and a little white. The guys look suitable macho and nimble. The girls are terrific dancers and a little dangerous with 4 inch stiletto heels and some very acrobatic back kicks.

And they got most of us up to try ourselves. With about a half hour of group lessons and a strong partner you could almost believe you could do the tango.

The Dinner Hour Starts at 9 or 10 or Later

The first couple of nights we went out to eat we wondered why the restaurants were almost deserted when we showed up. I took us a day or so to figure out that this was a Mediterranean lifestyle – 10PM  was a perfectly normal time for Argentineans to start thinking about dinner. Restaurants were just filling up when we were finishing our coffee and desert. There must be a late afternoon nap that is part of the lifestyle, because many of the people are just getting started when I’m ready to give up and go to bed around midnight.

A Successful Lesson

It Must Be the Hat!

Start with Your Right Foot

Start with Your Right Foot