A Busy Morning at the Jamaica Inn
As we get a little older, Michele and I have come to really appreciate the “Old Jamaica” style resorts. They remind us that well-to-do Brits with long vacations and a certain aristocratic style have been relaxing around Ocho Rios since the days of Errol Flynn and Ian Fleming.
A couple of winter’s ago we extended a business trip with a long December weekend at one of the Caribbean classics, The Jamaica Inn.
Built in 1950, the innovations of the last 6 decades haven’t made much of an impression. Famous guests from back in the day, say Winston Churchill or Katharine Hepburn, would still feel at home here.
It works because the fundamentals are still right. The bars and restaurants are first rate and comfortable spots to hang out in. After you have been there for a day or two you feel like a member of the club. And with only 47 rooms it’s a cosy club. We noticed a lot of repeat customers and it felt like most of the staff had worked there for years and quickly knew you.
There is a good, small private beach on probably the best stretch of real sand in this part of Jamaica. I skipped the little sailboats on the beach and explored the neighborhood in a sea kayak. That earned, to my way of thinking, a visit to the beach bar, capacity of maybe six or eight vacationers. It’s an easy place to make friends and enjoy the day; the kind of place that you think you should have a gin and tonic – or maybe two. Once the sun goes down there is surprisingly sophisticated entertainment. I’ve always liked jazz from the 50’s and 60’s and found it done well here. And it’s quiet if you want quiet. No TV’s or even clocks in the rooms.
I thought this was going to be hard to beat, but this turns out to be a very good neighborhood for classic island hotels. The place next door, The Royal Plantation, was acquired by the Sandals Resort family a few years ago and tastefully infused with whatever money needed to bring it to the top of class. Michele and I were there in April for a very relaxing week. There is a little more going on here. A great spa – I found a need for a second massage before I left. Multiple restaurant choices – all good. Another great little private sandy beach. And a new standard for relaxing on the sand – the Ten AM Mango Mimosa delivered to you on the beach.
Somehow, there is great continuity between the classic, very colonial British feel of the Plantation Inn and the updated Royal Plantation. And it is very up to date if you need CNN or Internet access to relax. By the middle of the week I didn’t care.
