Archive for June, 2010

Santiago and Chile

Monday, June 7th, 2010
Santiago from the Ritz Carlton

Santiago from the Ritz Carlton

After almost two weeks in Argentina, we noticed a gradual change as we approached Santiago. It is a bigger city, with more infrastructure, more high rise construction and more going on than Buenos Aires.

By comparison, Buenos Aires is somehow exotic and maybe stuck in a time warp. Santiago could have been in Denmark or Sweden, clean modern, well into the 21st Century and not the least bit exotic.

Chilean Vineyards

After all of our explorations of Argentinean vineyards we had to spend a day in the Chilean equivalent. The Chilean wine regions are spread out up and down the long valleys between the coastal range and the Andes. We visited a couple that were picked for their proximity -  less than 2 hours out of Santiago on the way to Valparaiso. What can I say. These were good, not as memorable as the best of Mendoza, but a nice afternoon. And the infrastructure is there – a good wine country restaurant with Chilean seafood instead of Argentinean beef. Its all good. And now we have to get to the airport for the long trip home.

Between Santiago and Valparaiso

Between Santiago and Valparaiso

Over the Andes to Chile

Monday, June 7th, 2010

I was at early check out at the Hyatt in Mendoza when I checked the weather report. It had snowed overnight in the Andes and the pass to Chile was temporarily closed. Our guide appeared to be unworrried, but a snow delay could screw up the timing for the next few days.

Four Hour Drive to the Chilean Border

It is a four hour drive from Mendoza to the tunnel that marks the 11,500 foot border between Argentina and Chile, usually plenty of time for the snow to be cleared from the tunnel entrances.

The drive is spectacular. It was fall in the Andes and the most visible color was the orange yellow of the tall Lombardy poplars along the roadside.

It Snowed Overnight

It Snowed Overnight

The snow on the mountain tops set off the roadside trees. It looked like this for miles. This drive is one of the best parts of the trip – much better than flying from Mendoza to Santiago.

Alongside the Highway to Chile

Alongside the Highway to Chile

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mount Aconcagua

There were no memorably steep hills on the way to the border, just a steady climb for mile after mile. But we knew we were getting up there. We had a couple of climbers in our group, along with our guide who pointed out Mount Aconcagua in the distance. At 22, 500 feet plus, it is the highest mountain outside of Asia.

Mt Acongogua behind the clouds

Mt Acongogua behind the clouds

Crossing the Border

The border crossing between Argentina and Chile is not exactly like going between the US and Canada. Chile is very fussy about any possible agricultural pests. They have no hoof and mouth disease, mad cow disease, med flies, grape destroying phylloxera, etc. and want to keep it that way. With the Pacific on the South and West, a big desert in the north, and the Andes in the East, they are effectively isolated and take advantage of this to inspect whatever crosses the border, slowly. We had to give up a couple of sandwiches which were smoked meat, therefore suspect and gone.

                                                                                                                   

High Altitude Border

High Altitude Border

  

The Quick Route Down
The highway on the Argentinean side is scenic. About half of us kept our eyes focused on the floor of the coach on the way down into Chile. 32 switchbacks made the drive one that we wont forget quickly. And this is the section that they closed because of snow.
32 Switchbacks to Chile

32 Switchbacks to Chile

At this time of year most of the traffic is professional drivers, buses, trucks and the like. We hear that this and the border crossing can get really bogged down in the summer months when there is no snow and lots of tourist traffic.

2 Days in the Mendoza Wine Region

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010
Mendoza

Mendoza, a city of 100,000 or so, is the capital of Mendoza, the province which is the location of most of Argentina’s wine industry. It takes a while to get there from Bariloche, there are no direct flights. We flew back to Buenos Aires and, after a few hours in the airport, got on another big plane to Mendoza. Distances are daunting here – like connecting between cities in the Western US – and driving is not a great option.

The Next Napa

Mendoza is not quite Napa Valley, but it is on its way. We stayed at a very modern Park Hyatt across from a major square in central Mendoza. The place seemed busy, with good restaurants and a bit of business activity centered on the wine industry. For some of our group the city tour lead to shopping and some high end momentos of the trip. Some of us opted for a long nap.

Our Favorite Wineries 

Benegas Lynch is one of the first wineries in the region – making Cabernet Franc from 80-year old vines. Their adobe building is historically significant as the owners are credited with bringing the first French grapes to Argentina. The original irrigation system was in full force when we visited, giving some perspective on the 80 year history. 

Starting Point for Argentina's Wine Industry

Starting Point for Argentina's Wine Industry

The Original Irrigation System

The Original Irrigation System

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bodega Catena Zapata also lays claim to pioneering work in developing world class Argentinean wines, particularly for pioneering high altitude vineyards. The original Catena was a faculty member at UC Berkeley for a number of years and no stranger to the Napa Valley. He came home to build a distinctive Mayan style showroom and winemaking facility that is one of the best attractions in Mendoza. And it doesn’t hurt that their best wines get ratings in the mid 90’s from Wine Spectator.

 

Bodega Catena Zapata

Bodega Catena Zapata

Fall Colors in the Catena Zapata Vineyard

Fall Colors in the Catena Zapata Vineyard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Achaval-Ferrer

This was, by our tasting, the best wine we found in Mendoza. Wine Spectator agreed, giving ratings in the high 90’s to some of the Malbecs that we got to try.

It is about the wine. The tasting room and vineyards are off the beaten path and unspectacular, but well known to serious wine buffs and collectors. We got the insider’s perspective from a vacationing Californian who had spent a few years in Argentina starting one of the mobile phone systems in the country – and developing an expertise in the best the region has to offer. Between he and the expert staff, this afternoon was memorable.